With a history dating back to the Vikings, and a position as capital of Europe's largest country, Kiev is the last great metropolis to remain undiscovered by mass tourism, American bratpackers or British weekenders. A city of gold-domed cathedrals and churches, it's remarkably clean and green with urbane, friendly people.
Beam down
British Airways (0845 77 333 77, www.britishairways.com) and Ukraine International Airlines (01293 596 609, www.ukraine-international.com) both fly direct to Kiev from Gatwick five times a week. Return fares start at £309 and £252 respectively. Ukrainian Travel (0161 652 6050, www.ukraine.co.uk) offers three-night city breaks for £349.
Get your bearings
Kiev is bisected by the Dnipro river. Almost everything of interest lies on the western bank, and is easily accessible on foot or by the city's three metro lines (7p per journey). As yet there is no central tourist office, but maps and guidebooks are readily available at hotels or from bookstalls and kiosks. If you can find a copy, the Kiev Business Guide has decent listings.
Check in
To issue a tourist visa (£25) the Ukrainian Consulate in London requires pre-booked accommodation through recognised agents such as Ukrainian Travel or Scotts Travel (020-7383 5353) or, online, at www.hotelsukraine.com. Hotel Bratislava at 1 Andriya Malyshka St (00 380 44 559 7570), on the east bank of the river, offers twin rooms from £45 per night. The three-star Hotel Lybid, at 1 Peremohy Square (00 380 44 274 0063), costs from £77 per night, or the four-star President Kyivsky, at 12 Hospitalna St (00 380 44 220 19 34), costs from £107 per night. Alternatively, Kiev Apartment Hotel Service (00 380 44 493 1837, www.kievhotelservice.com) offers central apartments from £48 per night for the first three nights; less if you stay longer.
Take a ride
Boat trips along the river leave from the landing stage at Poshtova Ploscha. They last for about 90 minutes and are well worth taking for the views of islands and the Caves Monastery. And they'll only set you back around £1.30.
Take a hike
Kievans take the metro (Hidropark) to the islands to walk in the woods. In the winter, hide away in one of the restaurants, cafés and bars. In the summer you can also swim from the sandy beaches, play tennis, rent a boat or pedalo or even practise your disco moves on a dance floor.
Lunch on the run
You can munch on an open sandwich, hot dog or pizza for the equivalent of 15 to 20p, if you buy it from one of the city's stalls and kiosks; add on 10p for an ice cream to follow. For picnics, stock up on fruit, meats and caviar at the central Bessarabsky Market. Or, if you fancy a lazy afternoon, revel in the fact that half a litre of beer costs 25p, and kvas, a liquorice-like drink, sells from roadside tankers for about 4p a glass.
Cultural afternoon
Museums honour everything from the Afghan War to the Chernobyl disaster. Visit the Ukraine History Museum, at Volodomyrska 2 for a view of Ukrainian history from the 18th century to the present. The Museum of Fine Arts at Khrushchevsky 4 also spans the centuries. For Soviet greatness, see the Museum of the Great Patriotic War complete with its gigantic "motherland statue" and military paraphernalia.
Window shopping
Khreshchatyk Vulytsia is the city's commercial thoroughfare. Showcase shops include the Central Department Store (TsUM) for gifts and standard post-Soviet consumer goods. An attractive alternative is the open-air market on Andriyivsky uz. It is crammed with traditional souvenirs such as painted wooden eggs, matrioshka dolls and lace.
The icing on the cake
Unique in its scale and grandeur, the Caves Monastery contains a number of churches and museums above the underground monasteries. Begun in the 11th century, the underground passages contain icons and the mummified remains of monks from centuries past. Believers touch them for their healing qualities. There is a charge for the museums and churches, but entrance to the caves themselves is free. Purchase a candle (7p) and, if you're female, wear a headscarf (available to rent for a 35p refundable deposit).
A walk in the park
Babiy Yar (grandmother's park) was once a forest on the edge of the city. A large Soviet memorial commemorates over 100,000 civilians and soldiers who were massacred here by the Nazis. On the other side of the park, a simple memorial to Kiev's Jewish community was unveiled a few years ago. The nearest metro station is Dorohozhychi.
Bracing brunch
The arrival of a fast-food chain in Kiev has brought welcome competition to the city's eateries, and improvements in service. Visit the Restaurant USSR, for views of the nearby Caves Monastery and the Motherland monument, or go to Hidropark for something altogether similar.
Demure dinner
Gorge yourself silly at Tsarskoe Selo, on Sichnevoho Povstannya (near the Caves Monastery). Quail stuffed with liver, wine and quails' eggs costs £11, while a big bowl of borscht is £5. Or, Pantagruel, next to the Golden Gate, offers German-style food and beer and is popular with expatriates and "New Ukrainians". Students and young Ukrainians hang out at Pizza Vesuvio, Reitarska, 25, which has pizzas for £2.50.
Sunday morning, go to church
St Sophia includes a golden-domed cathedral, belltower and monastery. Founded in the 11th century and originally Byzantine in style, it received an extensive makeover in the 18th century but some of the original frescoes survive. Entry costs £1.25 for foreigners. The lavish Mikhailovsky Cathedral was demolished on Stalin's orders, but has recently been rebuilt and entrance is free. Don't miss the overbearing Doric columns of the Stalin-era Foreign Ministry building next door.
An aperitif
Kiev is a good place for drinkers. Choose from a multitude of spirits, wines and liqueurs and pay only around 50p in a café for a liberal shot of vodka or brandy, or a litre of beer. One place worth visiting is Chumatsky Dvir on Andriyivsky uz or, for beer drinkers, Cafe Slavutych on Kreshchatyk vul.
Apartment Kiev Ukraine
